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ST. THOMAS HISTORY: St. Thomas had been inhabited for thousands of years before the Europeans discovered the island. While little is known about these earliest settlers, scientists believe they may have migrated to the Lesser Antilles from the South American coast. Christopher Columbus discovered the U.S. Virgin Islands in 1493. Since then, the flags of Spain, France, England, Holland, Denmark and the United States have flown over these islands. The first successful colonization attempt commenced officially in 1666, when the Danes took possession of St. Thomas. In 1685, the Danes signed a treaty with the Duchy of Brandenburg to allow the Brandenburg American Company to establish a slave-trading post on the island. At about the same time, the early governors gave their tacit approval to the use of St. Thomas as a pirate refuge, knowing that the local merchants would benefit from the open sale of pirate booty on the city streets. But while piracy ceased to be a factor in the islandís economy in the early 19th century, the slave trade continued until 1848. From 1700 to 1750, when piracy already was on the wane, legitimate trade was on the upswing and prosperous merchants replaced buccaneers on Dronningens Gade (Main Street) in Charlotte Amalie. Then in 1764, King Frederick V declared St. Thomas a free port. This action, together with the Danes'nonaggressive, neutral stance, combined to make Charlotte Amalie one of the world's busiest ports and the trading center of the West Indies by 1800. The next few years, however, saw the island's fortunes decline due to a combination of natural and political troubles. Yet through it all, trade somehow continued--and even flourished--until 1848, when Governor-General Peter von Scholten granted freedom to the slaves. As might have been foreseen in a plantation/slave society, this caused an immediate decline in the islandís economy. Around the same time, as humanity took another giant step forward with the switch from sail power to steam, the Virgin Islands, once so necessary as stopover points for sailing vessels, became a backwater. In 1917, during World War I, the United States bought the Virgin Islands from Denmark in order to prevent the islands from becoming a German sub base in the Caribbean. When World War II ended, St. Thomas moved into a new position of eminence as a tourist mecca. Today, the island is a choice port of call among cruise lines and a popular vacation destination. Although St. Thomas was hard hit by Hurricane Marilyn in September 1995, the islandís hotels, shops and attractions have recovered from the storm. One of the latest signs of St. Thomas' growth was the official addition of Water Island to the Virgin Islands in 1996. Located just off the southern coast of St. Thomas, the island belonged to the U.S. Department of the Interior, who received title from the U.S. Army in 1952. Once a strategic military base during World War II, the island is a tranquil retreat with secluded beaches and resorts, making it a soothing addition to the Virgin Islands'charms. SIGHTSEEING: Although it is the most urban of the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. Thomas still has a number of historic buildings and sights that will take you back in time. You'll marvel at the Danish architecture found in Charlotte Amalie: well-preserved old warehouses, public buildings, military structures and churches. The island also has its share of modern-day attractions, including a sleek tramway that offers riders breathtaking views of the harbor and town. In the countryside, you can stop at various lookout points and gaze out upon tropical isles and sapphire seas. A Tour of Charlotte Amalie Dozens of pretty pastel buildings line Charlotte Amalie's crowded Main Street. The nearby waterfront is dramatically framed by three sloping hills on one side and the lovely harbor on the other. The harbor, a haven for ships since the 1600s, is flanked by 19th-century warehouses built on the sites of earlier buildings where the treasures of marauding pirates were stashed centuries ago. Today, the equally renowned duty-free shops are located in the warehouses. At the Hospitality Lounge, located across the street from Vendor's Plaza on the east end of town, you can pick up maps, brochures and other helpful information. Following are some of the many sights to see in Charlotte Amalie: Grand Hotel: Not far from the Hospitality Lounge, on Norre Gade, is the Grand Hotel. Built in 1841, it is an excellent example of 19th-century architecture. It has recently been renovated, including restoration of many original features and expansion of the shopping area. Fort Christian: Across the street from Vendor's Plaza is Fort Christian, a Danish-built edifice that is immediately recognizable by its brick-red color. This National Historic Landmark is the oldest building still in daily use on St. Thomas; the fort dates back to the 17th century. You can climb to the top for a view of the harbor and the neighboring Legislature Building. Off the center courtyard are several small rooms that now comprise the Fort Christian Museum, which includes a collection of Amerindian relics and some interesting displays depicting life in the former Danish colony. Emancipation Garden: Located across from the Grand Hotel is a small park commemorating the 1848 proclamation that freed the slaves. A reproduction of Philadelphia's Liberty Bell occupies a corner of the grounds. Shade trees, park benches and a white gazebo make the park an ideal resting spot. The park underwent relandscaping and in 1998 served as the site where the 150th anniversary of the emancipation of the slaves was honored. Legislature Building: On the harbor side of the fort, between Veteran's Drive and the waterfront, is a pretty lime green structure that houses the island's legislature. The building is typical of the graceful island architecture of a century ago; note the coat-of-arms painted on the exterior walls. The structure originally was erected as a barracks for Danish troops; later, it served as housing for U.S. Marines and as a public school. One of the high points in the old building's history was its use in 1917 as the site of ceremonies transferring ownership of the Danish Virgin Islands to the United States. Frederick Lutheran Church: On Norre Gade, just east of the Grand Hotel, you will find the early-19th-century Frederick Lutheran Church, with its sweeping stairway. Constructed in a simple Georgian style in the 1780s, the structure has been rebuilt several times, resulting in the addition of its Gothic Revival trim. Among the church's treasures are antique chandeliers and 19th-century plaques inscribed in memory of several Danish colonists. Seven Arches Museum: Continuing on Norre Gade will take you to Franklin D. Roosevelt Park; turn left at the Pearl Express shop and go up the street of steps to Kongens Gade. Just to your left, right next to the Lieutenant Governor's House, is a tiny alley; along this passageway, a few yards down and to your left, you'll find this gem of a museum. Once a 19th-century Danish artisan's home, it has been lovingly converted into a museum by owners Barbara Demaras and Philibert Fluck. The two-story brick-and-stone structure, named for the seven arches that support its "welcoming arms" staircase, offers a rare glimpse into the bygone era when St. Thomas was a cosmopolitan port town. 99 Steps: Farther west on Kongens Gade, you'll come to a steep set of steps rising to the summit of Government Hill: the famed 99 Steps (actually there are 103). This stairway and others on St. Thomas were built in the mid-1700s as a result of impractical planning by Danish engineers who had never set foot on the island. They decreed that the city be laid out in a gridlike pattern, which meant building steps into nearly every hillside. The bricks used to construct the steps were originally brought from Denmark as ballast in the holds of sailing ships. Blackbeard's Castle: Near the top of the 99 Steps lie the remnants of Fort Skytsborg, the 17th-century fort that today is known as Blackbeard's Castle. The site was recently designated a National Historic Landmark by the federal government. Its name refers to the pirate Edward Teach, who allegedly frequented the island hundreds of years ago. Don't confuse this structure with Bluebeard's Castle on the eastern edge of town. Government House: Retracing your steps back to Kongens Gade, head west to find Government House, which houses the offices of the governor of the U.S. Virgin Islands. This neoclassical white brick-and-wood building, with a typical red roof and intricate ironwork, commands a magnificent view of the town and harbor. Government House was erected in 1867 as a meeting place for the Danish Colonial Council; it was renovated in 1994. The St. Thomas Synagogue: West of Government Hill, near the intersection of Raadets Gade and Crystal Gade, is The St. Thomas Synagogue. This is one of the most historically interesting--and best-preserved--buildings on St. Thomas. The Western Hemisphere's second-oldest synagogue (the oldest is on Curaçao), this temple was constructed in 1833 by Sephardic Jews. The original structure was built in 1796. Since some of the earliest Danish settlers were Jewish, the temple played an important role in the spiritual life of the colony. Fire destroyed the first synagogue in 1804, and the second was dismantled to make room for a larger third, which also burned. In keeping with the Sephardic tradition, the floor of the current structure is covered with sand, symbolizing the ancient flight of the Jewish people out of Egypt and across the desert. Adjacent to the synagogue is the Weibel Museum, where exhibits depict the Jewish community's role on the island. In June 1996, the congregation celebrated its bicentennial. Market Square: Heading down Raadets Gade will take you back to Dronningens Gade, or Main Street. On the west end of downtown Main Street is Market Square, where African slaves were once sold to the highest bidder. The auction blocks have been roofed, and now the square serves as an open-air produce market. Saturday is the busiest day, but just about any day has its share of local color and excitement. Exploring the Island Should you decide to take a trip around the island of St. Thomas, you will come across some of the loveliest beaches in the world. But there's much more to this tropical island than just stretches of white sand and swaying palm trees. Bluebeard's Castle: On the grounds of Bluebeard's Castle Hotel, located on a hilltop east of downtown, stands a stone tower. According to legend, it was built by Bluebeard for his one and only true love, Mercedita. In fact, the stone fortress was built as a watchtower to supplement the defenses of Fort Christian. It passed to private ownership in the early 1800s. West Indian Company Dock: Following Veteran's Drive out of town, you'll come to the West Indian Company Dock, where you can enjoy a view of St. Thomas' harbor and see the cruise ships up close. This is also the location of Havensight Mall. Paradise Point: A vantage point on Flag Hill just outside town, Paradise Point offers stupendous views of Charlotte Amalie and the blue waters beyond. Considered one of the best spots to watch sunsets, it also has a bar and restaurant; gift shops are located there as well. The Paradise Point Tramway, which is located opposite the cruise-ship dock, offers pleasant tram rides to the scenic overlook. Tillett Gardens: Located in Anna's Retreat in the Tutu area of the island, Tillett Gardens is a center for local artists and performers. Once an old Danish farm, the grounds were transformed by Jim Tillett, an English silkscreen artist who arrived on the island in 1959, into what he calls "a peaceful sanctuary of creativity and wonderment." In the workshops and stores, you'll find silkscreen prints, enamel jewelry and other handcrafted items. The brightly painted alfresco bar is a great spot to enjoy a cool drink. Throughout the year, Tillett Gardens hosts art festivals and musical concerts. Magens Bay: Magens Road leads to the beach at Magens Bay, often cited as one of the top 10 beaches in the world. Drake's Seat: Just off of Route 40 south of Magens Bay, west of the junction of Magens Road and Hull Bay Road, is Drake's Seat, overlooking more than 100 Virgin Islands sprawled out in a turquoise sea where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean. According to legend, British privateer Sir Francis Drake watched the ships passing through what is now called Drake's Passage from this point. You can pull off the road and enjoy the same view from this lookout point. MountainTop: The signs pointing the way to MountainTop will lead you along Route 33 to the summit of St. Peter Mountain, where you'll find more sensational panoramas. Fifteen hundred feet above sea level, MountainTop is a popular rest stop and shopping area and claims to be the original home of the banana daiquiri. Fairchild Park: Below MountainTop is beautiful Fairchild Park, a gift to the people of the U.S. Virgin Islands from philanthropist Arthur Fairchild. The park is home to some of the finest tropical foliage on the island. Estate St. Peter Greathouse & Botanical Gardens: Nestled high in the volcanic peaks of St. Thomas is found the lavish Estate St. Peter Greathouse & Botanical Gardens. Visitors can follow a self-guided tour through the contemporary estate and its magnificently landscaped grounds and view the local artwork on display. An observation deck, 1,000 feet above sea level, offers panoramic views of more than 20 Virgin Islands and provides picturesque photo opportunities. The West End: The road to the western part of the island will take visitors past the airport and the University of the Virgin Islands to Brewer's Bay, an ivory-sand beach popular with the locals. Nearby is the Reichhold Center for the Arts, where a variety of entertainment events are regularly scheduled.
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