SAN JUAN, PUERTO RICO



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SAN JUAN, PUERTO RICO

Ships dock at the cruise pier at the bottom of Old San Juan.

There are taxis at the dock. You can also hail minibuses (called "omnibus"), which shuttle along main routes; to hail one, respond with a wave when the driver toots his horn. If you want to rent a car, rental car agencies operate out of Condado (about 5 miles from Old San Juan). Hertz (800-654-3131, from $26.95) and Avis (800-831-2847, also from $26.95). Uniquely, both agencies will reimburse you for up to a $5 cab ride.

It's walking distance to Old San Juan. Streets are uneven (constructed of blue cobblestones cast from furnace slag) and hills are steep so wear comfortable shoes. Old San Juan, which is an undergoing an awesome renaissance (if you haven't been lately you'll be amazed at how beautiful and spiffed-up its European-esque buildings are, particularly the many that are freshly painted in cheerful pastels of lavender, blue, yellow and pink). The Latino music phenomenon has led to a rebirth in a new, fresh "nuevo Latino" cuisine, which in turn is attracting more attention to the island's quality art, crafts and antiques.


Calle Fortaleza

Shopping in Old San Juan. While San Juan is not a duty free port, at least its stuff isn't taxed. You'll certainly find plenty of ol' craft and t-shirt shops (particularly along Fortaleza and San Francisco Streets). One tip: the further east you walk (going away from the cruise pier) the more interesting the shops and restaurants get. One great street for window shopping (if not buying) is Calle Cristo; highlights include Manolo Diaz (99 Calle Cristo), an artisan who works in his shop on crafts using recycled objects -- old mirrors, wooden shutters, antique windows and even pocket-sized religious icons. Prices start at $15 for one-of-a-kind pieces.

HISTORY: To protect the transportation of gold, silver and jewels, on its route from America to Spain, the Spaniards built a series of forts in the Caribbean. The beautiful city of San Juan was founded in 1521. A massive wall and forts were built around the city to protect it from the enemy. The city was used as a stopover for ships that came from Spain and a stronghold to prevent the enemy from taking control of the island and making Puerto Rico an enemy base. These walls and fortifications are part of the heritage left by Spain to Puerto Rico. Today the cobblestone streets, interior patios, hanging balconies, plazas, and chapels make of this historic city a charming and picturesque place to visit.


City Wall (La Murala)

In 1595, Sir Francis Drake attacked San Juan in pursuit of gold and silver stored in "La Fortaleza". The artillery in "El Morro" effectively defended the city and punished the invaders sending them away with many casualties. In 1598, Sir George Clifford, Count of Cumberland, landed in San Juan and sieged the city but could not take El Morro. After suffering exhaustion and sickness they were forced to leave. Even the Dutch, Commanded by General Boudewin Hendricksz, landed on San Juan in 1625, the Spanish resistance at El Morro made it impossible for them to take over. The Dutch burned down the city, including La Fortaleza, and left.


Puerto Rico fortifications

PLACES TO VISIT

A leisurely walk through Old San Juan is one of the most pleasant experiences anyone could have here in Puerto Rico. The colonial architecture of hanging balconies and cobble stone streets make you feel like you have gone back in time. Here are only some of the nice places to visit in Old San Juan.

La Casita – Here at the Tourist Information Center you can pick up free literature and maps of Puerto Rico for your tour of Old San Juan and all of Puerto Rico. La Casita is located next to Plaza de la Dársena, overlooking San Juan Bay, near Pier 1. Telephones (787) 1709 or (787) 724-4788.

Paseo de la Princesa – A great place to spend weekend afternoons. Local artisans display and sell their work. Also there is live music early Sunday evenings and on many other occasions.

Massive City Wall – Construction of this 42-foot-high wall that surrounded the city began in the 1630s. It is made of solid sandstone blocks and held together with mortar, limestone, sand and water.

La Puerta de San Juan – The San Juan Gate was constructed in 1520. This strong, heavy wooden door was the official entrance for those who came to Puerto Rico on wooden sailing ships during the colonization. Up the block is La Catedral de San Juan where Mass would be held to thank God for allowing them to make the journey.


Cathedral of San Juan

La Fortaleza – Take a tour of La Fortaleza (9 - 11 a.m. and 1 - 3 p.m.). Originally built as a defense fort, this small castle has been utilized as the governor’s mansion for centuries. Guided tours Monday through Friday.

La Catedral de San Juan – This beautiful Cathedral, built in 1540 is a good example of Gothic architecture in the New World. Here in a marble tomb lie the remains of Juan Ponce de Leon.

El Morro – El Morro (tours at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m.), whose original parts were completed in 1539 (and which successfully turned back would-be colonial powers from capturing the island). Six level castle 140 ft above the sea, overlooks the Atlantic Ocean and San Juan Bay.

San Cristobal Fort – San Cristobal Fort (tours at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.). Completed in 1771, this castle was designed to protect the city from land invasions.

Teatro Tapia – This is one of the oldest theaters in the Western Hemisphere. Performances of plays, ballets and concerts are held regularly. Museums – Old San Juan is full of museums. Art exhibits and collections of historic items can easily be found throughout this historic neighborhood. These are just a few.

  • Institute of Puerto Rican Culture – Puerto Rican paintings and sculptures.
  • Museo de Las Americas – Archaelogical findings, santos (woodcarvings of saints), crafts and more. Located in El Cuartel Ballajá.
  • Museo de Arte e Historia – Exhibits Puerto Rican art and music. Many concerts and festival are held here.
  • Casa del Libro – Displays the art of printing and bookmaking. On display also, is a rare collection of books from the 16th century.
  • La Princesa – This restored building was formerly a jail. Today it is the headquarters for the Puerto Rico Tourism Department. On exhibit is Puerto Rican Art.
  • La Casa Blanca – This house was built as a home for Governor Juan Ponce de Leon who died in Florida before he could live there. His family lived here for 250 years.
  • Museo Pablo Casals -- Fans of the Spanish cellist Pablo Casals should check out the Museo Pablo Casals (Plaza San Jose, Tue-Sat 9:30-4:45), where the Spanish master's collection includes manuscripts, photographs and a library of video tapes of Festival Casals concerts (played on request).

El Convento (100 Cristo Street), the recently refurbished luxury hotel has a galleria of high end stores like Calvin Klein Home and Alessi. Sunny Caribbee (154 Calle Cristo) is an offshoot of the Tortola classic and features hot sauces and coffees made from Puerto Rican recipes, along with crafts; across the hall, El Galapon has gorgeous masks.

While Old San Juan doesn't really boast any, the beaches in the nearby areas of Condado and Isla Verde, stretch along high rise hotels and are a 5 - 10 minute taxi ride (longer during rush hour) from the cruise pier.

Visit the Bacardi Rum Factory. Take the ferry to Catano (it leaves from Pier 2, right next to the cruise ship dock, every half hour and costs $1 roundtrip for the six minute ride; a bus from the Bacardi Rum Factory will pick you up for the tour.

Visit El Yunque, the only U.S. National Forest to be a rain forest. Located about an hour south of San Juan, you'll see numerous waterfalls, ferns and wildflowers along the marked trails. Because it's a rain forest, it will probably, well, rain, during your visit, so pack a slicker.

Relatively new on the scene is the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico in Santurce (just south of Condado, 299 De Diego Avenue, open from 10 a.m. Tuesday - Sunday). Its exhibits elegant Puerto Rican art along with visiting themed shows.

You'll need to rent a car to visit Ponce, Puerto Rico's second largest city, which lies on the southern coast and, thanks to a speedy highway is just a half-hour drive. While there, head first for the downtown plaza where highlights include the Paque de Bombas, a bizarre (and historic) red and black painted firehouse and the Catedral de la Guadalupe. Ignore the banal tourist tchokes at Coqui (9227 Calle Marina, across from Parque de Bombas) and head for the back of the shop, where gorgeous papier-mache masks (dragon faces, etc.) by the late artist Miguel Carballo are displayed (a mid-sized one costs $110). His wife Norma, also an artisan, has designed smaller ones ($20) and another local artist, Saure, also displays his masks here.

Just down the street is King's Cream, a famous ice cream stand; our limon-flavor was more like a creamy gelato. For a gourmet lunch, a must-visit place is around the corner from Coqui; Mark's at the Melia (Hotel Melia, 75 Calle Cristina, Wednesday - Sunday from noon - 3 p.m., 787-284-6275), owned by husband and wife team Mark and Melody French, is, alone, worth the drive to Ponce (at least for culinary aficionados)! Another star attraction is the Ponce Museum of Art (Las Americas Avenue, open daily from 10 a.m.), which features works by Rubens, Gainsborough, Ribera, Murillo and Sorolla.

For golfers, Bahia Beach is a hidden treasure; a car rental is required to get to this out-of-the-way 18-hole public course that sits at the base of El Yunque and fronts the sea with a gorgeous beach, framed by palms and palmettos. Being totally public, it's also open to non-golf playing visitors (though the club does ask that you politely ask permission). Golf clubs are available for rent.

Casino gambling at the big hotels from the Wyndham Old San Juan to the Ritz-Carlton.

Best Beach for a Half-Day Visit: The beaches that run in front of Isla Verde's luxury hotels (about a 20-minute cab ride); ask the cabbie to drop you off at the Ritz-Carlton or the El San Juan.

Best Beach for the Dedicated Beach Bum: Luqillo Beach (near El Yunque) is a real locals' haunt; long stretches of sand, water sports rentals and a great line of food stands offering classic Puerto Rican beach food.

Lunching: Really casual, in-town joints: Right off the ship head to La Bombonera (259 Calle San Francisco) and belly up to the counter to order a freshly squeezed glass of orange juice (or, for lunch, a classic Cubano sandwich). The circa-1903 bakery-lunch joint is open from 7:30 a.m. - 8:15 p.m. At night, Parrot Club (363 Fortaleza, Monday - Friday 11:30 a.m. - 3 p.m., Saturday noon - 3 p.m., Sunday brunch from noon to 4 p.m.) is a hotspot but at lunchtime it's just a casual, easy place to check out the nuevo Latin cuisine. Cafe 51 (51 Calle Cristo, serves all day) is a coffee house-style establishment that also serves pastries and sandwiches; nearby the just-opened El Buren Pizza Restaurant (103 Calle Cristo, serves all day from 11 a.m.) has gourmet pizzas.

Gourmet Lunching: Check out "international restaurant row" in Old San Juan. Recinto Sur runs one block parallel to the waterfront and features everything from sushi to Vietnamese to Transylvanian. Options include Yukiyu Sushi Bar (312 Recinto, noon - 2:30 p.m.) and Al Dente (309 Recinto, noon - 2:30 p.m.), among others. Panorama Bar & Latin Grill (Hotel Milano, 307 Forteleza, Monday - Saturday from noon, Sunday from 2 p.m.) is in the heart of Old San Juan and offers a gorgeous rooftop view (lunch and dinner).

Gourmet Dining: Because many ships embark out of San Juan and don't depart until late-night, cruisers should also consider dinner options. Transylvania Restaurant & Bar (317 Recinto Sur) offers a menu featuring a hodgepodge of European foodstuffs, like sausage, spinach pie and pork schnitzel, along with some Caribbean-themed items, such as ceviche of octopus and salmon and salsa. Baires (Plaza del Mercado 9, off San Sebastian Street, noon - 2:30 p.m.) was an unexpected find; the Argentinean-themed restaurant has live music some nights and delicious fare, from grilled sweebreads to steaks to pasta. Dragonfly (364 Calle Fortaleza, from 6 p.m.), a fabulous Latino-Asian restaurant offers "Dragonfries," which are french fries dusted with cinnamon and ginger.


The above extracted from Carnival Cruise Line Brochure and El Viejo San Juan.


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